secolo. Fu comunque nell'VIII secolo che il costume cinese divenne popolare in Giappone. Durante il periodo Heian (794–1192) il kimono divenne sempre più simile a quello attuale, anche se all'epoca veniva ancora coperto con una sorta di grembiule chiamato mo. Durante il periodo Muromachi (1392-1573) il kosode, un antesisgnano del kimono che però veniva considerato ancora parte della biancheria intima, cominciò ad essere indossato senza la gonna-pantalone hakama sopra di esso e quindi cominciò anche ad essere fissato al corpo con una cintura apposita, la cintura obi. Durante il periodo Edo le maniche iniziarono ad allungarsi, specialmente tra le donne non sposate, e la cintura obi iniziò a diventare più larga, con vari tipi di nodi e allacciature sempre meno semplici. Da allora la forma base del kimono maschile e femminile è rimasta essenzialmente immutata.
Il kimono ( letteralmente cosa da indossare quindi abito) è un indumento tradizionale giapponese nonché il costume nazionale giapponese. In italiano è largamente usata anche la grafia adattata chimono.
In origine il termine "kimono" veniva usato per ogni tipo di abito; in seguito è passato ad indicare specificamente l'abito lungo portato ancor oggi da persone di entrambi i sessi e di tutte le età. Il kimono è molto simile agli abiti in uso durante la dinastia cinese Tang.
Il kimono è una veste a forma di T, dalle linee dritte, che arriva fino alle caviglie, con colletto e maniche lunghe. Le maniche solitamente sono molto ampie all'altezza dei polsi, fino a mezzo metro. Tradizionalmente, le donne nubili indossano kimono con maniche estremamente lunghe che arrivano fin quasi a terra, chiamato furisode. La veste è avvolta attorno al corpo, sempre con il lembo sinistro sopra quello destro (tranne che ai funerali dove avviene il contrario), e fissato da un'ampia cintura annodata sul retro chiamata obi.
Molti credono che il kimono sia l'uniforme utilizzata nella pratica delle arti marziali giapponesi, dovuto spesso all'errata credenza diffusa nei film del genere, in realtà si usa il termine Keikogi per identificare l'abbigliamento per la pratica delle discipline marziali. Il kimono viene generalmente abbinato a delle calzature tradizionali giapponesi, specialmente ai sandali geta e zori (simili alle infradito) e a dei calzini che dividono l'alluce dalle altre dita chiamati tabi.
English
Kimono histry
The kimono is a Japanese traditional garment. The word "kimono", which literally means a "thing to wear" (ki "wear" and mono "thing"),has come to denote these full-length robes. The standard plural of the word kimono in English is kimonos, but the unmarked Japanese plural kimono is also sometimes used.
Kimono are T-shaped, straight-lined robes worn so that the hem falls to the ankle, with attached collars and long, wide sleeves. Kimono are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right (except when dressing the dead for burial) and secured by a sash called an obi, which is tied at the back. Kimono are generally worn with traditional footwear (especially zōri or geta) and split-toe socks (tabi).
Today, kimono are most often worn by women, and on special occasions. Traditionally, unmarried women wore a style of kimono called furisode,with almost floor-length sleeves, on special occasions. A few older women and even fewer men still wear the kimono on a daily basis. Men wear the kimono most often at weddings, tea ceremonies, and other very special or very formal occasions. Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in the kimono because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public.
As the kimono has another name, gofuku , the earliest kimonos were heavily influenced by traditional Han Chinese clothing, known today as hanfu (kanfuku in Japanese), through Japanese embassies to China which resulted in extensive Chinese culture adoptions by Japan, as early as the 5th century AD. It was during the 8th century, however, that Chinese fashions came into style among the Japanese, and the overlapping collar became particularly women's fashion. During Japan's Heian period (794–1192 AD), the kimono became increasingly stylized, though one still wore a half-apron, called a mo, over it. During the Muromachi age (1392–1573 AD), the Kosode, a single kimono formerly considered underwear, began to be worn without the hakama (trousers, divided skirt) over it, and thus began to be held closed by an obi "belt". During the Edo period (1603–1867 AD), the sleeves began to grow in length, especially among unmarried women, and the Obi became wider, with various styles of tying coming into fashion. Since then, the basic shape of both the men’s and women’s kimono has remained essentially unchanged. Kimonos made with exceptional skill from fine materials have been regarded as great works of art.
The formal kimono was replaced by the more convenient Western clothes and yukata as everyday wear. After an edict by Emperor Meiji, police, railroad men and teachers moved to Western clothes. The Western clothes became the army and school uniform for boys. After the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake, kimono wearers often became victims of robbery because they could not run very fast due to the restricting nature of the kimono on the body and geta clogs. The Tokyo Women's & Children's Wear Manufacturers' Association promoted Western clothes. Between 1920 and 1930 the sailor outfit replaced the undivided hakama in school uniforms for girls. The 1932 fire at Shirokiya's Nihonbashi store is said to have been the catalyst for the decline in kimonos as everyday wear. Kimono-clad Japanese women did not wear panties and several women refused to jump into safety nets because they were ashamed of being seen from below. (It is, however, suggested, that this is an urban myth.)The national uniform, Kokumin-fuku , a type of Western clothes, was mandated for males in 1940. Today most people wear Western clothes and wear the breezier and more comfortable yukata for special occasions.
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